That dealer saw blood and went for it.
You have to know what you are dealing with before you enter the showroom. kbb.com and edmunds.com both give invoice and retail prices as well as any incentives. Edmunds will list what most people are paying which will be less than the MSRP in most cases. Research can save you thousands. Unless you are buying a car in demand (such as a Toyota hybrid), you should be in the driver's seat (pardon the pun) as most automakers are experiencing sales declines.
You should print out all the options available and invoice prices of the car(s) you are interested in. Do not expect the salesman to be forthcoming with rebates and incentives either. If you don't know there is a $2,000 rebate, they may never tell you. Also research "holdback" as it may be 2-3% of the invoice price, so even if the dealer sold a car to you at "invoice" price, they still make some money on the sale. Also, depending on sales numbers, they might also get added incentives from the manufacturer.
The end of the month is usually a decent time to buy in case a dealer needs a couple more sales to reach a certain goal.
DO NOT be afraid to say no and get up and walk away. If they want your business they will contact you or stop you before you leave. Tell them upfront you are not gonna hang around for hours on end. If things haven't gone your way within 30 minutes or so tell them you are done and head for the door.
DO NOT tell them what the most you can afford to pay otherwise your car will cost that plus a few dollars more.
DO NOT discuss trades until after you have gotten a price, based on invoice prices + some modest amount of profit (but NOT full MSRP). Otherwise they will make up your "great" deal on the new car with a sucker punch on the trade in. Know the value of you trade in from the sites listed below.
DO NOT pay for the "extras" such as undercoating, rust proofing, paint sealers, fabric protection, etc. These are usually listed separate of the "Maroney" Label (the sticker on the side that lists standard and options equipment and gas mileage figures).
I've even seen such things as "price level adjustment" or "adp" (additional dealer profit) added to a sticker. These are pure added cost - do not pay!
Come to the dealership with financing in hand. Get pre-approved with your bank or other financial institution (shop around for the best rate). Otherwise they may stick it to you on the back end with a bad rate. When I bought my last car (a 2004), they offered me 6.95%. I told them I could get 4.5% from my local credit union, they offered me 4.44% from Bank of America. I took that since I didn't really have a credit union (but I did look up their rates for new cars so it wasn't a real big lie)
USE THE INTERNET to research and locate a car you are looking for. Most automakers allow you to search a dealer's lot and even view the stickers and prices for actual cars on the lot. Email the dealership and ask for their best price on the car you want. I honestly believe that when you do this, they will often throw you a pretty decent price right off the bat, because if they do not, you may not even come to the showroom.
Lastly, do not allow yourself to be bullied. If you feel like you are walk away. They generally need you more than you need them.
Did I say do not be afraid to walk away. They are trying to wear you down and agree to their terms.